Prague is changing me. A tourist would view Prague as a lovely destination to strike off the bucket list. I felt the same the first few weeks I was here. Now, as an insider in Prague, I feel different. There’s so much to learn from this city, this country that has lost more than it has gained. Still, it survives and prospers. Ivan Klima, Czech novelist and playwright, wrote in “The Spirit of Prague” that “[…] it was not freedom that most influenced the shape and spirit of Prague, it was the unfreedom, the life of servitude, the many ignominious defeats and the cruel military occupation.” Many romanticize freedom extensively, but they forget that only the harshness of ‘unfreedom’ makes